A fable as rich and pungent as dark chocolate, Joanne Harris’s modern morality play takes place in a provincial French village during the season leading up to Easter and pits a witchy Samaritan against a priest embittered by thwarted ambition. The review excerpts on the cover of my paperback copy (Black Swan, 2000) describe Chocolat as a feel-good feast for the senses. That may be true of Lasse Hallström’s film version, which in its lighter tone and romanticised content differs from the novel like milk chocolate from bitter-sweet. The novel is edgier. It may be read as a spirited defence of compassion against intolerance, but, juxtaposed with the theme of redemption represented by the religious festival, the narrative’s undercurrent is curiously unconciliatory. There is enchantment in reading Chocolat, but of the Grimm kind: uneasy and slightly wild-eyed.
On a blustery Carnival day two strangers arrive in the staid backwater village of Lansquenet-sous-Tannes: an unwed mother and her young daughter. A few days later the coverings come down from the building directly opposite the church, revealing their new shop: a chocolaterie.
Father Francis Reynaud has fought hard to build a pious community that honours decency and morality. He is incensed at the insolence with which Vianne Rocher seduces his parishioners from their Lenten self-denial with her charming smile and decadent confections. From the church pulpit he denounces her along with anyone who neglects their religious obligations and their responsibility to protect the village from disorder and corruption.
Like the Travellers who moor their barges along the riverbank below the village Vianne has never stayed anywhere long enough to put down roots. The chocolaterie is her chance to change, to become part of a community. But when she takes a stand in favour of the despised Travellers, battle lines are drawn and the village is split into opposing camps. Will Lansquenet be the place where Vianne finally stops running, or will the voices of oppression once again force her and her daughter to follow the wind?
Chocolat is not really a journey into France: the novel offers very little to take away from the destination point of view. The village mentality it describes could easily apply to places beyond the borders of France, and many of the characters are people you might meet almost anywhere. This, in my opinion, matters little.
Situated along a tributary of the Garonne River near Agen (Lot-et-Garonne, Aquitaine), the fictional village of Lansquenet-sous-Tannes is a mix of gritty French realism and fairytale quaintness. This is story magic at work: even as entirely unsentimental descriptions depict a forgettable, shabby little town one might drive past with an absent-minded glance on a tour of the French countryside, the drama inside the community unfolds with the gaudiness and buffoonery of a Guignol show: in defiant swirls of bright colour, in whispers that subvert, in violent passions of the soul.
The deliciousness of Chocolat is served up in luscious writing that revels in sensory detail but may feel too calorific if you don’t like descriptive prose that is effervescent as a genie drunk on a bottle of chocolate liquor. After all, the tastes, aromas, textures, comforts, and conflicts in Chocolat arise from a South American bean once considered the food of the gods. It has the power to move and to madden, and its presence is felt in every scene: the froth and bubble of the hot chocolate in silver pots that sends tendrils of sweet-scented invitations through the shop door; two florentines placed gently on the saucer of a grieving man’s chocolate espresso; the blush-inducing sweets called nipples of Venus and the summing up of a personality with “pralines shaped to look like tightly closed oysters”; the chocolatey hallucinations of a man light-headed from severe fasting...
The one thing chocolate is not in this book is a cure. Its warmth, sweetness, and exoticism comfort, gladden, strengthen, and subvert. Under its influence, sombre shadows lighten. But only for a moment. To the very end, the narrative never entirely frees itself of dark undercurrents. Neither of the main characters escape being marked by the darkness they have fought, each in their own way. Doubts and fears haunt everyone, and brittle anxieties that sometimes border on hysteria skitter around tightly wound rage. The language itself mocks and stings as it reveals, sometimes with startling glee, suppressed hostilities, ill will, and condemnation. Words such as these abound, and they are not confined to the villain/s: malicious, malignant, malevolent, contemptuous, sneer, vicious, vindictiveness, bile, mocking, spite, knife, barbed, poisonous, venomous, menace, clawing, snigger.
The finality of an ending that has the tone and quality of a judgement further underscores that the novel is not a fairytale but more akin to a morality play. Paradoxically, despite the symbolism inherent in the Lenten and Easter-tide setting – including a Good Friday death – and the importance placed on compassion and inclusion, we see no merciful conciliation of opposing forces, no cathartic redemption of those who have acted badly. (For contrition and forgiveness, you will have to turn to the film version.)
Although Chocolat is a character-driven story peopled by eccentrics and outsiders, hypocrites and gentlemen, fanatics and pragmatics, most, however well-drawn, are types rather than multi-dimensional characters. Don’t expect a layered, complex exploration of the nature and meaning of goodness or virtue. This is an allegory in which everybody plays a pre-assigned part. The message is never in doubt, and at the end the forces of good triumph and the wicked are cast out.
The two principal characters, Vianne Rocher and Father Reynaud, are also the narrators of the story. Chapters of open-hearted commentary by Vianne alternate with Reynaud’s confession-like outpourings at the bedside of his stroke-paralysed mentor and predecessor. From the beginning, Vianne’s attitude that what matters in life is happiness, whether or not the Church is part of it, clashes with Reynaud’s conviction that salvation can only be reached through denial of self. Her experiences have taught her to value tolerance; his, that pity and charity breed moral corruption.
Soon, the chocolaterie that is the culmination of Vianne's efforts to finally settle down and lead a normal life begins to symbolise something much worse to Reynaud than pagan hedonism during a time of religious abstinence. Is not Vianne’s chocolaterie – a combination of café and confiserie – in fact a rival to the Church and the confessional? As a community forms around the shop, as people come together there to unburden their hearts, make friends, and find solace in dreams and tasty pleasures, Reynaud seethes at the mockery he perceives in the very name of place : La Céleste Praline (The Heavenly Praline). At the same time, battling the chocolaterie gives the priest a sense of purpose that has been lacking from his life. Having always thought himself destined for greater things, his frustration at being stuck with an insignificant rural parish has fostered self-pity which he nows throws off, rejuvenated by the opportunity to prove his worth to his flock and to God. So when his initial attempt to boycott the chocolaterie fails, he begins to take everything Vianne does personally. The chocolate festival she plans for Easter Sunday, for example, not only scorns the holiest of Christian ceremonies but must be intended to undermine his authority. She is the witch in the gingerbread house who lures in the innocent and devours them.
Vianne has inherited her mother’s restlessness and wandering lifestyle, which always was fueled by unnamed fears and doubts. It has made Vianne sceptical of conventional morality and its oppressive voice of authority that turns communities against those who are different. Father Reynaud seems the personification of the most pernicious sort of bigotry. But for the love of her daughter, Anouk, whose only friend is an imaginary rabbit, Vianne tries to break with the past and face up to whatever fate brings. And if in the process of changing herself she brings change to close-minded Lansquenet it is surely for the better, she reasons. So why is her sleep is haunted by nightmares that destroy her peace? While knowing she must curb her otherness - in particular the intuition that allows her to read and subtly influence other lives - if she is is to make Lansquenet her and Anouk's permanent home, the questions and uncertainties that beset her nevertheless drive her to desperately try to divine the future with her mother's Tarot cards. Snatches of the song V'là l'bon vent keep flitting through her mind, a reminder of the restless wind that never seems to cease calling her name. (The song is one I, too, remember from childhood, sung by Nana Mouskouri on Vieilles Chansons de France, which I still love. I am including a link to the CD on Amazon because it allows one to listen to a sample of the refrain.)
In Lansquenet, she learns, it does not take much to induce guilt or freeze somebody out. Joséphine Muscat, the kleptomaniac wife of an abusive barowner, endures backstabbing gossip and snide glances every day: “’[...] if you don’t go to confession, if you don’t respect your husband, if you don’t cook three meals a day and sit by the fire thinking decent thoughts and waiting for him to come home, if you don’t have children – and you don’t bring flowers to your friends’ funerals or vacuum the parlour or – dig – the – flowerbeds!’ She was red-faced with the effort of speaking. Her rage was intense, enormous. ‘Then you’re crazy!’ she spat. ‘You’re crazy, you’re abnormal and people – talk –about – you behind your back and – and – and–’” (page 72).
So, who is considered "good" in Chocolat? Reynaud, the Pharisee whose scrupulous observance of ritual and blindness to the spirit of the law has created a flock of obedient churchgoers whose piety is superficial, wonders why none of them show him affection. It would be a mistake to assume that the novel vilifies Christians, though; the good people in Lansquenet include churchgoers like Guillaume, the gentlest, kindest, and, to me, most touching character in the book. It is he who most clearly embraces the message of humanity the story aims to impress on the reader: love thy neighbour – not only thy Christian neighbour – as thyself.
About ten years have passed since I last read Chocolat. In the meantime, Joanne Harris has written a sequel, titled The Lollipop Shoes (UK)/The Girl With No Shadow (USA). I have not yet read it. For now, I am still recovering from the box of Guylian Sea Shells I plundered while revisiting La Céleste Praline. Generally, I favour milk chocolate (preferably Fazer's Geisha) but for Joanne Harris's darkly appetising tale I continue to make an exception.
A film of related interest: The film version of Chocolat (2000) retains the novel's message but in other respects differs widely. The novel is set in contemporary France, but despite an occasional mention of a VCR or a flatscreen television has a deceptively vintage atmosphere. The filmmakers took their cue from this and set the film's story in 1959. The character of Reynaud (played wonderfully by Alfred Molina) has been re-written to make him the mayor of Lansquenet (moved from Aquitaine to Flavigny-sur-Ozerain in Burgundy), and Vianne - a glowing Juliette Binoche - is given a romance. The set design and cinematography enhance the lighter, prettier aspects without making everything too sugary. Still, romantics may prefer this version of Chocolat and France.
Hot Chocolate With A Taste Of Faraway Lands
(Adapted from a recipe in a Bon Appétit magazine. For Vianne's hot chocolate recipe, go here.)
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2 cups whole milk (reduced fat milk does not carry the “weight” of the spices as well)
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1/4 cup dark brown sugar, packed
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5 whole cardamom pods, crushed
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4 whole cloves
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1/2 cinnamon stick
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1/4 teaspoon whole coriander seeds
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1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
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pinch of dried crushed red pepper
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3 tbsp unsweetened cocoa powder
- 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
Bring everything except the cocoa powder and vanilla extract to a simmer in a heavy saucepan, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Remove from the stove, cover, and let steep 20 minutes. Add cocoa powder and vanilla. Return to a simmer, whisking until blended. Strain. Pour the hot chocolate into two mugs.